Zedel by M. Kuehn

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The illustrious Parisian style grand cafe that is Zedel.

 Elegant without being pompous, a thrilling example of Art Deco architecture and a brasserie that brings dizzying heights of style to its surroundings. One was almost afraid that what is about to come next would inevitably be a disappointment.

Perusing the menu over a couple of glasses of Provence in the the very swish bar Americain next door to the restaurant, both of us were  hugely impressed with the pricing of both food and wine from the simple and traditional French menu. This is the heart of London after all, where prices have rocketed post pandemic.

Glancing around the vast space after being seated, I was struck by the vibrant atmosphere and the impressive serving staff who actually presented a human side to themselves, rather than the almost robotic actions of staff under pressure to push for the most expensive options and whose faces present such disappointment when you order tap water.

Both lovers of steak tartare, (a snip at £12.50), we also chose the same main, the cod with palourde clams in a vermouth sauce (£23.50), French fries (£3.95), glazed carrots and green beans ( both at £3.75) to be partnered with a glass each of Malbec (£8.50) and Riesling (£10.50).

The verdict ? How can I put this without sounding like a sycophant ? I don’t think I can actually. It’s so bloody rare to find exceptional service, luscious food, beautiful surroundings and a sparkling atmosphere in one place. The waiting staff were incredibly accommodating, the tartare had a silky, gorgeous texture with a Bach like harmony throughout, the fish bathing in a heavenly, buttery sauce was a simple delight and the wine was very quaffable indeed. 

What more can I say but ‘chapeau bas’. Long may you reign. Long may you stay the same. 




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