I first had this salad/accompaniment in Bordeaux where I was a student many moons ago. The canteen was like a restaurant and the year abroad was the start of a love affair which continues. Vive La France. You can whip … Read More

One thing I’ve learned about lockdown, apart from the fact I can grow a rather distinguished beard, is that it’s becoming a tad redundant producing restaurant reviews when many are shut down indefinitely. However, with so many chefs now working … Read More

  I used to frequent Clerkenwell some years ago, hanging out with my friends at publishers’ Creation Books. Regular nights of heroic drinking would inevitably end in the Tinseltown American Diner in St. John Street. It wasn’t quite fine dining, … Read More