Having had my fill of disappointing second or third visits to the same restaurant, I wondered whether Le Vacherin would live up to my previous review, written a few years back, pre the stultifying pandemic.
Still as elegant and refined as before, what had initially impressed me was the tap water served in silver jugs. No upselling here, no mouth drooping from a sniffy waiter because you didn’t choose the ‘still or sparkling’ option. Thankfully that hadn’t changed.
Neither had the bread basket, the anchovy butter of which had no other choice than to be slathered over the warm baguette.
A reassuringly small menu unveiled the usual French delights so my guest and I shared 6 oysters whilst trying not to order the whole menu.
A very professional and charming hostess who, unlike so many waiting staff, ignorant of the food they are delivering, made some solid suggestions and so we chose the twice baked Gruyere souffle with walnut salad and the tuna crudo to start, followed by the sea bass and saffron sauce for both of us.
A dependable carafe of Sauvignon Blanc and six oysters later, served with a perfectly sharp raspberry vinegar was a jolly good start.
The sign of a truly talented chef lies in their ability to balance flavour and textures. I think you are born with this instinctive skill, it’s not just years of training. With this in mind, whoever created the exquisite tuna dish deserves an OBE. I would sell my grandmother for the recipe.
As for the souffle, a shining example of French gastronomic pleasure, it was lighter than a wisp of cotton.
You know how a sauce can either destroy or bring a whole plate to life, well, watching the pale saffron sauce being poured gently over the fish was a very nice touch before virtually drinking the stuff.
Even my distinct lack of interest in most things sweet was assuaged by the raspberry mille feuille, a concoction so complex and delicious I had to cave in and well, dive in if truth be told.
What can I say except ‘chapeau bas’ to this charming place, a real tower of exquisite gastronomy. Price is not an issue with food this good but I’m happy to report that it’s a damn site cheaper and better than many ‘fancy’ places in which I’ve had little pleasure in eating.
Le Vacherin
76-77 South Parade
London
W4 5LF
0208 742 2121
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